Wonderland Trail, Mt. Rainier, Washington

Wonderland Trail, Mt. Rainier, Washington

Posted to OHE on 26 August 2002 by Georgina Oka

August 4–7, 2002

Longmire – Devil’s Dream Camp (August 4)

Six of us arrived in Seattle the night before, just shy of 10 PM, meeting the seventh member of our party at the Doubletree Hotel. After repacking our bags, it was nearly midnight, and we collapsed into bed, only to be awoken a few hours later to catch the 7 o’clock shuttle to Longmire. The two-hour ride was mostly a blur as I slept.

Arriving at Mt. Rainier National Park, I thought it was freezing—about 60 degrees with a sullen gray sky to greet us for our 13-day adventure. Permits were obtained quickly, and our party included my father, Grant Oka, Carmen Craig, Laura Owens, Carole Moon, June Miyasato, and Ralph Valentino. Three more members—Ralph’s son Michael, his wife Bev, and my father’s wife Joyce—would join on Day 8 at Sunrise.

We hit the trail around 10:30 AM, with packs weighing 40–70 pounds. The trail to Devil’s Dream was smooth, very unlike Hawaii’s rougher trails. Carrying a lighter load due to sacrificing warm clothes, I shot ahead into a strange land of “Christmas trees” and giant, dumb mosquitoes. I spotted a deer quietly munching off the trail, unafraid because it had never known a hunter.

About a mile from camp, a ranger admonished us for being spread out. “You can fall off the trail in places,” he said, which made us laugh, comparing Rainier’s gentle trail to Hawaii’s treacherous ones.

I reached Devil’s Dream around 3:30 PM; the rest of the group followed soon after. Some confusion ensued as we tried to find the assigned group site, but eventually, we located it. Tents were set up, and water was obtained from a stream a quarter mile away. The temperature dropped quickly, so all seven of us squeezed into a two-man tent for warmth, playing cards until dark. Once scattered to our tents, the cold worsened, and I shivered in my 30-degree sleeping bag, thinking I could turn around and leave by noon.

Devil’s Dream Camp – South Puyallup River (August 5)

The Wonderland trail is aptly named—once on it, people endlessly wonder why they are doing this. My second morning was freezing with very little sleep, but a lot of shivering. Clouds covered the sun, and we broke camp wet.

Just outside, we crossed a few small snow patches. The 40-degree weather was actually pleasant for hiking. June and I took the lead and soon descended into a rocky area dotted with sparse “Christmas trees.” Tahoma Glacier loomed ahead, feeding spectacular waterfalls. It is amazing how much water can flow from a glacier without diminishing it.

Crossing the scree, I spotted a small furry creature the size of a house cat. For a moment, I feared a bear cub, but a long tail reassured me. As we climbed to a lookout point, light rain began to fall. I rested at the top, noticing the rain bouncing—quickly realizing it was hail. Pea-sized balls of ice scattered around me for less than a minute, thoroughly exciting this Hawaiian girl.

We regrouped at the lookout and headed toward camp. Just past the lookout, a shrill whistle sounded. Laura and I ran down the trail to Carole with binoculars—only to find the sound came from the little creature I had seen earlier: a whole field of marmots! Cute, blonde-backed creatures. Reassured, we continued, making camp in the rain, slightly damp and cold. I slept poorly again, aided by a hot water bottle from my father, going to bed early while the rest stayed up late talking.

South Puyallup River – North Puyallup River (August 6)

Rain continued for nearly the entire day. From South Puyallup, we climbed switchbacks through a high-altitude meadow at St. Andrews Park and Klipatche Camp. Low clouds obscured most views. A small snowman built alongside the trail by Ralph brightened the day.

I hiked alone for much of the day, passing very unhappy young men inadequately equipped. A brief hailstorm added to the misery; one group member even suffered slight frostbite. I met up with Ralph and Laura at Klipatche, stopping for a quick lunch, then descended into the valley along North Puyallup River.

The monotony of switchbacks was broken by spectacular waterfalls from both nearby streams and distant glaciers. About an hour later, we reached the North Puyallup group site. The rain stopped, clouds lifted, and we rushed to a lookout for mountain photos. There we met a girl hiking Wonderland in the opposite direction; she warned us that early days had been hot, but the last three had been cold and rainy.

We realized it was too late to set up tents out of direct rain. Discouraged, we explored the campsite, an old parking lot with gravel remnants, an old road, and remains of a bridge over the river. I stayed in my dad’s tent due to rain and the hardness of the ground, snuggling into my sleeping bag for warmth. Laura did the same.

North Puyallup River – Golden Lakes (August 7)

Morning screams echoed as we dressed in cold, wet clothes, but hope lingered as the sun touched a peak near camp, turning it golden. Sunlight hit the ground, sending steam from soaked trees. We ran from half-broken camp into sunny spots, looking ridiculous as we warmed ourselves. Gear was spread across the grass to dry.

Around 11 AM, clouds rolled in and we reluctantly packed up. We headed up a graded trail along a ridge that became increasingly steep. June and I led but paused at a small snake beside the trail—a foot long with vertical black and gray stripes.

The trail resembled an old dirt road. Mist surrounded us but no heavy rain fell. Laura took the lead and disappeared into the mist. I paused for lunch but soon resumed, passing others still eating. A section of burned forest enveloped in mist led to a bear sighting: a young black bear quietly munching berries. We radioed the group; no one was harmed, though the bear eventually wandered away.

Grant picked blueberries from the patch near the bear, the only real berries we found on the trip. The rest of the day passed uneventfully, though mosquitoes were numerous, and the view from our dinner spot was remarkable.