Mohihi–Koaie, Koaie–Waimea Backpack

Mohihi–Koaie, Koaie–Waimea Backpack

Posted to OHE on 6 June 2003 by Mark Short <shortonmaui@yahoo.com>

Dave Brown and I followed the trip outlined in The Backpackers Guide to Hawaii and the update found at this link.

Day One – Kōkeʻe to Sugi Grove

Neither Dave nor I had a watch on this trip. We took a cab from the Līhuʻe Airport to Kōkeʻe. The cost was about $82 plus tip. The driver also provided useful information on catching the public bus from Waimea town back to the airport.

The initial road section was the most confusing part of the trip, with several intersections requiring careful attention to directions. It was a pleasant road walk, and the cabins were interesting to see. The ʻAlakaʻi Picnic Area had nice views of Poʻomau Canyon and Waiʻaleʻale. We stayed on the road, though we could have taken the Pihea Trail to Kawaikoi.

At Kawaikoi we found a beautiful lawn, covered picnic tables, and a composting toilet. Right across the stream was Sugi Grove. After touring the campground, we continued on the Kawaikoi Stream hike, which Dave and I agreed deserves the title of nicest stream hike in Hawaiʻi. Bright sun, cool dark water, and a very well-maintained trail.

We swam, lounged, admired frogs and dragonflies, and eventually returned via the Pihea Trail to Sugi Grove. We camped beside the stream, cooked, relaxed, and later shared a campfire with a friendly couple traveling Kauaʻi in a truck with their huge Great Dane. After a peaceful evening, I returned to my camp and slept well.

Day Two – Sugi Grove to Koaiʻe Camp

We passed through the Waiakoali Picnic Area, continued to the Poʻomau Canyon Vista, and descended the Kohua Ridge Trail. At the end of Camp 10–Mohihi Road we found another picnic area and trail register.

The trail was remarkably civilized. Despite a few confusing spots near mud holes in the ʻAlakaʻi Swamp, conditions were dry and clear. We reached Koaiʻe Camp with plenty of time to swim, sun, and observe frogs, tadpoles, and dragonfly larvae.

Hunters arrived later with a large pack of dogs, all well behaved. After mist rolled through the ridges in the evening, we enjoyed another peaceful night by the stream.

Day Three – Koaiʻe to Waialae Cabin (Cowboy Flats)

Hunter ribbons and traffic marked the first part of the trail. Views and weather remained outstanding, with many native birds and plants. After carefully timing our route, we found the critical junction and descended Kaluahaʻula Ridge.

We encountered horses, cowboys, and a Mokihana berry gatherer preparing for graduation leis. Navigation became tricky at a blowdown, but eventually we found the faint path and reached Waialae Cabin.

The afternoon was spent swimming, napping, exploring upstream, and relaxing. That night, horses wandered through camp after pulling their stakes, adding to the unique experience.

Day Four – Waialae Cabin to Waimea River

Morning brought sweeping views reminiscent of Alaska. Cane smoke drifted up from below, and we passed Hinanui Falls overlook and several shelters along the way.

The long descent down the red ridge ended at Mokihana Stream, where we soaked and cooled off before multiple stream crossings led us to the Waimea River. We swam, rested, and watched the stars from a sandy riverbank.

Day Five – Waimea River to Līhuʻe Airport

We walked past hunting dog kennels, saw the Menehune Ditch, rescued a prawn from the road, and watched spinner dolphins at the mouth of the Waimea River. After visiting Russian Fort, we caught the bus back toward Līhuʻe.

The ride was entertaining, including conversation with an elderly retired paramedic who was deeply concerned we make our flight. We wandered Līhuʻe, visited statues and an abandoned mini-golf course, and walked to the airport, catching an early direct flight to Maui.

Dave called this the “good karma” trip. Not a drop of rain in five days and clear skies throughout. Even so, careful route finding was essential. It was a special trip to a special place, and I feel fortunate to have experienced it under such ideal conditions.