Mauna Loa Trip Report

Mauna Loa Trip Report

Posted to OHE on 18 May 2004 by Rich Jacobson

I just returned from the Big Island Sunday (May 16) after spending four nights on Mauna Loa with Mike Fujita, Jim Maka and Ed Gilman. Rising gradually to more than 4 km above sea level, Mauna Loa (Long Mountain) is the largest volcano on earth.

Last month Mike mentioned that he, Jim and Ed would be backpacking Mauna Loa. Having never done this hike before I asked if I could join them and they cheerfully accepted. A big mahalo to Jim for making all the travel, car, and lodging arrangements and providing transportation to the airport.

We flew over to Hilo on Monday morning, rented a car, did some shopping for last minute items and then went over to register for the hike. A ranger at the desk warned us of the dangers of the hike and was concerned that none of us had a bivy sack or tent in the event that there was a white out and we were stranded before getting to the cabin. He eventually signed us off after we each initialed that he warned us about the hazard of going without those items.

We then went to the Holoholo hostel in Volcano Village to check in for the night. Satoshi Yabuki, the hostel host, is an experienced traveller. Born in Japan, he has backpacked through Europe, North and South America, the Middle East, Nepal and Tibet, China, Australia, New Zealand, and the U.S.S.R (he has yet to visit Africa)! That night we ate at the Kiawe Kitchen. The food was only so-so.

We got up early that morning and feasted on eggs and pancakes before embarking on our journey. Jim, the designated driver, drove us to the trailhead. While getting ready, a middle-aged couple from Huntsville, Alabama arrived. They had the exact same itinerary as we did: Red Hill cabin (10,000 feet), two nights at the Summit (13,025 feet) Cabin, and then the final night at Red Hill. We never saw this couple again after the first half mile.

To reduce the chances of getting altitude sickness, Jim, Mike and I took Diamox. Mike and Jim had attempted an ascent of Mauna Loa in the past but due to severe altitude sickness by Mike, they had to turn around at 12,000 feet. My pack felt comfortable, weighing between 40 and 50 pounds. The weather was fine when we started but soon it became quite windy and rainy. I made it to Red Hill Cabin at 1 PM, about 3 1/2 hours after starting. I stripped off my soaked cotton shirt and put on a dry sweatshirt and fleece.

The cabin was quite clean and pleasant, but the pit toilet had a seat with peeling paint that stuck to your butt. Ed and Mike had to put the corrugated metal roof back on the toilet. We had the cabin to ourselves that night. Mike had a mild headache but otherwise we felt fine. For fuel, we tried using kukui nuts, but they managed to put the fire out rather than help it. We eventually used scrap wood found under the cabin.

The next day the weather was miserable with rain and near white-out conditions, so we stayed at Red Hill to acclimate. That evening we watched American Idol on a miniature color TV I picked up at the airport. The reception was excellent. Thursday turned out to be a wonderfully clear day. We left Red Hill at about 7 AM. I arrived at the summit trail junction five hours later. I noticed the sign for the cabin had fallen down, so I erected it with lava rocks and proceeded across the crater floor. I arrived at the Summit Cabin just six hours after leaving Red Hill.

Mike experienced a severe pounding headache during the ascent, which persisted at the high altitude. The pit toilet at the summit rests directly on a large lava crack overlooking the caldera—an impressive view for doing one's business. The water from the tank had a brown tinge but we treated it. Surprisingly, there was no log book or TV reception at the summit.

The return trip to Red Hill took four and a half hours. My toes began to ache because my Merrell reef walkers were a bit too small for the downhill stride. We found a humorous log book entry at Red Hill from a student named Eric who was looking for "hot chicks and free beer." On Saturday morning, we reached the trailhead where a couple from Hilo offered us beer—it never tasted so good.

We found a "VIOLATION NOTICE" on our car, but it turned out to be a note from Ranger Kracht. A backpack had been found abandoned on the trail and the ranger wanted to know if we had seen anyone. We suspected it belonged to the Alabama couple who hadn't checked back in, though their car was gone. We ended the trip with a visit to the lava flow and a great dinner at the Lava Rock Cafe. All in all, a rewarding trip shared with great partners.

Aloha, Rich