Eight Hong Kong hikes

13 Days, 8 Hikes: Exploring the Trails of Hong Kong

I spent 13 days in Hong Kong and managed to complete 8 different hikes. On past trips, I’d often wake up with no plans and end up wandering through shopping malls. This time, the weather was perfect—around 65°F almost every day—making it ideal for getting outdoors and staying active.

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1. Shatin Pass to Beacon Hill

Date: December 24, 2006

I started by walking up paved Shatin Pass Road, turning off at the ridge toward the top of Chicken Breast. I had done this route once before back on December 30, 2004. While the map marks it as a trail, back in 2004 there was barely any sign of foot traffic. This time was completely different: trail ribbons were everywhere. It seems Hong Kong hikers have really embraced using ribbons recently compared to a few years ago.

Once I reached the ridgetop, I traversed the range along the MacLehose Trail, originally planning to exit at the intersection with Tai Po Road (a major two-lane road). However, near Beacon Hill, a female hiker struck up a conversation with me and suggested taking a side trail down to So Uk. I decided to join her—making it the first time I've ever met a stranger on a trail and hiked together!

2. Shing Mun Valley

Date: December 25, 2006

I went on this hike with my lawyer friend, his wife, and their son. We set off from his village residence and walked up the massive valley that houses both Lower and Upper Shing Mun Reservoirs. At the time, Lower Shing Mun Reservoir was drained so accumulated silt could be removed. The trail winds nicely along the hillside of the valley.

I'm continually impressed by how much money the local government invests in building footpaths everywhere—sometimes even connecting seemingly remote spots. It’s a sharp contrast to Hawaii, where the government often impedes hiking access (like requiring an environmental impact statement just to restore OC).

3. Fei Ngo Shan (Kowloon Peak)

Date: December 26, 2006

I hiked up to Fei Ngo Shan peak starting right from where I was staying. Right at the trailhead, I met another female hiker. She had never been to the top before, so I persuaded her to tag along. She turned out to be a very strong hiker! We reached the summit, sat down, and enjoyed lunch. I’ve been up here at least 10 times now.

Local Lore: This spot is said to have some of the best feng shui in China. Sun Yat-sen moved his mother to Hong Kong to escape persecution from the Qing government. When she passed away, she was buried on the northern slopes of Fei Ngo Shan in 1910. Just one year later, in 1911, the Republican Revolution succeeded, and Sun became the President of China.

I'm honestly contemplating having my own ashes—and those of my parents—scattered at the summit one day.

After lunch, we crossed over to the road intersection, headed down the winding road surrounding the peak, and walked back home. My hiking partner ended up setting a faster pace than me by the end!

4. Fei Ngo Shortcut Trail

Date: December 27, 2006

I decided to check out another trail marked on the map that serves as a shortcut to the switchbacking road. I had attempted this route a couple of times previously, but had turned back after encountering feral dogs on the ridge.

This time, no dogs in sight (though there were still some on a neighboring, longer ridge). The shortcut took only 40 minutes—much faster than expected. I spent the remainder of the day exploring the network of roads crisscrossing the peaks.

5. Ma Mei Ridge (Ma On Shan)

Date: December 30, 2006

Ma On Shan is a high peak out in the Eastern New Territories. Reaching it used to be a major expedition—I had only summited twice before (once in 1973 and once in 1989). However, accessing the area is much easier now thanks to the new railway line.

Ma On translates to "Horse Saddle," referring to its twin peaks connected by a curved ridge (the lower peak representing the tail). Back in 1989, I spotted a trail leading down the "tail" side but wisely chose not to take it. On this trip, I set out to find where that trail connects at the bottom.

Finding the trailhead took about two hours of shuttling between railway stations due to extensive development at the base. Eventually, I found a paved contour path near a public garden right next to Wu Kai Sha Station, and some local hikers pointed me to the right ridge.

It turned out to be an excellent trail—gentle at first, then steepening (with unnecessary fixed ropes installed), before leveling off again. I made it about halfway up (the peak sits at roughly 2,500 feet) before running out of time and having to turn back.

6. Nai Chung Ridge (Ma On Shan)

Date: December 31, 2006

Back to Ma On Shan! Nai Chung Ridge was mentioned in a 1938 hiking book by a British author named Graham, who was the director of the Hong Kong Observatory. He claimed to have climbed up from Nai Chung (Kwun Hang) and Tai Tung, though modern commentaries insisted those trails no longer existed and were nearly impossible to summit.

A high-altitude contour ledge—the Nei Tin Ledge Path ("Near Heaven") at ~1,500 feet—connects Ma Mei, Nai Chung, Tai Tung, Elephant Trunk, and Horse Head peak. While Ma Mei and Elephant Trunk are confirmed doable by online trail groups, no one online claimed to have done Nai Chung.

I took a taxi to the end of the railway line near a crowded Sunday BBQ site. Nobody there had heard of the trail, so I pulled out my loppers and started clearing a path from the very bottom. The trail route was visible, but severely overgrown—easily the most overgrown mapped trail I’ve seen in Hong Kong, reminiscent of Papali Uka in Hawaii.

The ridge terrain itself was easy, but clearing brush turned a 35-minute walk into a 3-hour effort. Ahead, I could see the upcoming section steepening to at least a 60-degree incline—which will require a major trail-clearing effort next time!

7. Hong Kong Trail (Section 7)

Date: January 1, 2007

I went out again with my lawyer friend, his wife, and their son. We caught the #9 bus, then made a long descent down paved steps toward To Tei Wan beach (a spot I vaguely remember visiting as a young child).

From there, we followed a long, flat, paved path running along a water catchment conduit. Because it’s completely level, it makes for an easy stroll, though the sheer distance gets tiring by the end. We wrapped up the day by catching a bus along the main road.

8. Nei Lak Shan & The Ngong Ping 360 Trail

Date: January 2, 2007

I traveled to Lantau Island to check out the Ngong Ping 360 cable car system, which connects Tung Chung to the Ngong Ping plateau (home to the Po Lin Monastery and Giant Buddha). I arrived around 9:00 AM, only to find the cable car wasn't opening until 10:30 AM due to operational delays—a bit frustrating after a 6:00 AM wake-up!

Instead, I took the traditional bus up to the plateau. While most visitors hike Lantau Peak (Phoenix Mountain, 3,130 ft), I decided to hike Nei Lak Shan (Maitreya Peak, 2,464 ft), named after the future Buddha. True to its easygoing namesake, the mountain features smooth grassy slopes rather than dense trees.

At the trailhead map, I discovered a newly constructed trail that completely circumnavigates the peak—a impressive 5-foot-wide path carved into the mountain by the government. I hiked to the summit, took in the views of the cable car lines, and descended into the saddle between Maitreya and Lotus peaks.

Near the cable car control room, I discovered a brand new trail running directly beneath the cable car line—a rescue/service path required by the government during construction. Getting to be one of the very first hikers to walk this new 360 trail ended up being the absolute highlight of the trip.

--Wing